Kenya's Masai Mara: Hot Air Balloons Over the Savanna
A dawn balloon flight over the Masai Mara is one of the finest wildlife experiences in Africa — an hour of silence above the savanna, watching the herds move below in the golden light of the African morning.
The Masai Mara National Reserve in southwestern Kenya is the northern extension of the Serengeti ecosystem and one of the finest wildlife destinations in Africa. The reserve covers 1,510 square kilometres of open savanna, riverine forest, and the Mara River — the crossing point for the wildebeest migration — and contains one of the highest densities of large predators in Africa.
The balloon flights over the Mara launch at dawn from camps in the reserve and drift for about an hour over the savanna, following the wind. The view from the balloon — the herds of wildebeest and zebra moving below, the lions visible on the kopjes, the Mara River winding through the acacia forest — is one of the finest in Africa, and the silence of the balloon, broken only by the occasional burst of the burner, gives the experience a quality that no game drive can match.
The Mara River crossings, which take place between July and October when the wildebeest migration moves north from the Serengeti, are the most dramatic wildlife events in Kenya. The herds gather on the southern bank for hours or days before the first animal plunges in, and when the crossing begins — thousands of animals in the water simultaneously, the crocodiles striking, the calves swept downstream — it is one of the most intense natural spectacles on Earth.
The Masai people, who have lived alongside the wildlife of the Mara for centuries, are one of the most culturally distinctive peoples in Africa — tall, red-robed pastoralists who have maintained their traditions of cattle herding, warrior culture, and beadwork in the face of enormous pressure to change. The Masai villages (manyattas) that border the reserve offer cultural visits that, when done with a reputable operator, provide a genuine insight into a way of life that is genuinely different from anything in the modern world.
The Mara is one of the finest places in Africa to see the big cats. The cheetahs of the Mara are among the most habituated in Africa — they will hunt within metres of a vehicle, and the sight of a cheetah at full speed (reaching 120 kilometres per hour) is one of the most extraordinary in wildlife photography. The leopards of the Mara are equally well-habituated, and the lions — particularly the famous Marsh Pride — are the most studied in Africa.
The accommodation in the Mara ranges from the basic public campsites to the extraordinary luxury camps that have made the Mara one of the most expensive safari destinations in Africa. The Angama Mara, perched on the edge of the Great Rift Valley escarpment with views over the entire reserve, and the Mahali Mzuri, Richard Branson's camp on the Olare Motorogi Conservancy, are among the finest in Africa.
The best time to visit the Masai Mara is from July to October, when the wildebeest migration is in the reserve and the river crossings are taking place. The dry season (June to October) is the best time for general game viewing, when the vegetation is sparse and the animals concentrate around the rivers. The green season (November to May) brings lush growth and the calving season, with excellent predator activity and far fewer tourists.
Getting to the Masai Mara from Nairobi takes approximately five to six hours by road, or around 45 minutes by scheduled light aircraft. Several airlines operate daily flights from Wilson Airport in Nairobi to the Mara's various airstrips, and the flight itself offers aerial views of the Rift Valley that are worth the journey. Most visitors combine the Mara with other Kenyan destinations — Amboseli, for the elephant herds beneath Kilimanjaro, or the Laikipia Plateau, for a more exclusive and less visited safari experience.
The conservancies that border the Masai Mara National Reserve — Olare Motorogi, Naboisho, Ol Kinyei, and others — offer a different kind of safari experience from the national reserve itself. Visitor numbers are strictly limited, off-road driving is permitted, and night drives are allowed — activities that are not available in the national reserve. The conservancies are more expensive than the reserve, but the quality of the wildlife experience, particularly for big cat sightings, is generally higher.
TravellingPros Tip: The wildebeest crossings are unpredictable — herds can gather on the riverbank for hours or even days before crossing, and then cross in a matter of minutes. The most reliable approach is to position yourself at a known crossing point with a knowledgeable guide and be prepared to wait. Patience is the most important quality a visitor can bring to the Mara.
