Trekking the Caucasus: Georgia, Armenia, and the Mountains Between

The Caucasus Mountains run for 1,200 kilometres between the Black Sea and the Caspian, forming the natural border between Russia to the north and Georgia and Armenia to the south. They are among the most geologically young and tectonically active mountains in the world, and the landscapes they produce — deep gorges, glaciated peaks, and high meadows — are among the most dramatic in Europe.

Svaneti, in northwestern Georgia, is the most famous trekking destination in the Caucasus — a high valley accessible only by a single road that is closed by snow for much of the year, where medieval defensive towers rise from every village and the Svan people have maintained a culture largely unchanged since the Middle Ages. The trek from Mestia to Ushguli, the highest permanently inhabited settlement in Europe, takes four to five days and passes through some of the finest mountain scenery in the world.

The Kazbegi region in northeastern Georgia, centred on the town of Stepantsminda, is more accessible than Svaneti and equally dramatic. The Gergeti Trinity Church, perched on a 2,170-metre hill above the town with Mount Kazbek rising behind it, is one of the most photographed images in Georgia — and the hike to it, through alpine meadows and past grazing horses, is one of the finest half-day walks in the Caucasus.

Armenia's Dilijan National Park, in the north of the country, offers a different kind of Caucasus experience — dense beech and oak forests, medieval monasteries built into cliff faces, and a landscape that feels more like central Europe than the Middle East. The Haghartsin Monastery, hidden in a forest gorge near Dilijan, is one of the finest examples of Armenian medieval architecture and is almost entirely free of tourists.

The food and wine of Georgia are among the best reasons to visit the Caucasus. Georgian cuisine — khinkali dumplings, khachapuri cheese bread, slow-braised meats — is one of the great undiscovered culinary traditions of the world, and the country's wine, made using the ancient qvevri method of fermenting grapes in clay vessels buried in the earth, produces amber wines of extraordinary complexity. The Kakheti wine region, east of Tbilisi, is the heart of Georgian wine culture and offers some of the finest wine tourism in the world.

Tbilisi, the Georgian capital, is one of the most atmospheric cities in the former Soviet Union — a place of sulphur baths, Orthodox churches, Art Nouveau balconies, and a wine bar culture that keeps the city alive until the early hours. The old town, built on the cliffs above the Mtkvari River, is a UNESCO candidate and one of the most beautiful urban landscapes in the Caucasus.

The best time to trek in the Caucasus is June to September, when the high passes are clear of snow and the wildflowers are at their peak. July and August are the busiest months in Svaneti, but the trails are long enough and the valleys wide enough that solitude is always available to those willing to walk an extra hour. The shoulder months of June and September offer the best combination of good weather and manageable crowds.

Yerevan, the Armenian capital, is one of the most underrated cities in the former Soviet Union — a place of pink tufa stone buildings, excellent coffee culture, and a cognac tradition that produces some of the finest brandy in the world. The Cascade complex, a giant stairway of fountains and sculptures connecting the city centre to the Kentron district, offers views of Mount Ararat — the biblical mountain that is visible from Yerevan but lies across the border in Turkey — on clear days. The Armenian Genocide Memorial at Tsitsernakaberd is one of the most moving memorials in the world.

The ancient cave city of Vardzia, carved into a cliff face in southern Georgia in the 12th century, is one of the most extraordinary archaeological sites in the Caucasus — a complex of 3,000 rooms, 13 churches, and a sophisticated water supply system built into a volcanic rock face that stretches for 500 metres. The site is accessible from the town of Akhaltsikhe, and the combination of Vardzia, the nearby Rabati Castle, and the Borjomi mineral water resort makes the region one of the most rewarding in Georgia.

Practical travel tips for the Caucasus: Georgia is one of the most welcoming countries in the world for independent travellers, with a well-developed guesthouse network, excellent marshrutka (minibus) connections between towns, and a visa-free policy for most nationalities. Armenia is similarly accessible and affordable. The currency in Georgia is the lari and in Armenia the dram — both are easily exchanged at banks and exchange offices in the capitals. Travel insurance that covers trekking at altitude is essential for the mountain regions.